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Blog My Lord Kroak and Other Models

Carnasaur

DeathBringer125

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Hey I am going to list a couple of the guys I have painted. Be aware that I am new to painting and I am not using gw paints. Please leave an honest review but don’t be rude. Thank you for your time.
 
Before I comment I want you to tell me how you painted Kroak, what primer etc etc?

The reason being you want honest opinions but I can't give you that without knowing your process, I can guess but I just want more information.

I won't be rude but I will be totally honest with you like I am with everyone. ;)
 
I use apple barrel paints and and rustoleum 2 in one paint+ primer (it was the best I could find)
 
Well....I think you have a good start. Basically a base coat. I understand that you're rather restricted with the paints you have available to you, and I commend you for applying what you have, the way you did, BUT it still needs a lot more work to get to a table top standard.

By doing just a few things, like a quick drybrush of a tan color over his rags, will help tremendously. Clean up a few of your lines (it's a small model, I know) and pay close attention to details (skulls and bones aren't usually white). With just a few points of clarity, He'll be looking tons better in no time!
 
No, drybrushing is simply dipping your brush in paint, then wiping most all of it off on a paper towel, until just the faintest little bit of color is left on your brush. Once your get it to that point, then you quickly flick your brush over your model with back-and-forth motions. This will "layer" your model and give you a softer edge and more 3D depth.

It's probably easiest to simply google a video on how to drybrush. There's tons out there. It is a very easy method that works wonders, quickly. The best part, is that you don't have to be that accurate with it to get great results!
 
Oh nice ty I will try that also what do you think on the eyes I have him. I thought they might look cool like his spirit glowing inside of him
 
It's a little hard to tell from the pic since his head is a little out of focus, but I can see what you were going for. Looks cool! And it fits the theme of the character very well! I really like to do that with my Tomb Kings as well!
 
Well, start with fine-tipped brushes. The sharper the point the better. If you use cheap brushes (like from Walmart), then they'll eventually lose their tip and have to be replaced. (I usually demote those brushes to more standard coverage brushes.)

Also, water down your paints. This doesn't take much water AT ALL. Usually just a drop. The point is to make it a little easier to move the paint around and prevent it from "caking up" on the model and losing that fine detail.

And, of course, be slow and patient. Try to regulate your breathing, only brushing between breaths. That's when your hand will be the most steady. (Don't take too long though, because the lack of oxygen will cause your hand to start shaking too!) It may take forever, but the result is worth it!
 
I also think it is a good start. You got paint onto a model. That's more than many people do.

There are a few things you can do that will massively improve your painting:

- Buy better paint. I know the paints are kinda expensive, but GW, Army Painter, Vallejo, and P3 all have a wide variety of pretty good colors. It may take a while to get a good amount of them, but they are worth it.
The problem with your colors is that they do not cover very well. Good acryllic colors cover well depsite being thin. That helps with crisp details.

- For each material use four techniques of painting to make the structure show:
1. prime. That usually means spraying the whole model black, grey, or white. Black is probably the best for starters, but you can also use the base color for a model. I prime my Skinks blue for example.
2. basecoat. That's basically what you did. Just cover the part with a color that is close to what it should have. Aim for a color that is a tad too bright.
3. shade. Use a thin color that runs into all the recesses. That gives the structures depth. Pick one that is similar to the basecoat paint, just darker. In a pinch just use strongly thinned-down regular brown or black color. That will still look better than no shade at all.
4. drybrushing. Put a brush with stiff bristles into the color, wipe it off on a paper towel until it only leaves very little color on your skin when you brush over the back of your hand. Pick a color that is slightly brighter than your base color, and carefully brush over the parts. That will leave colors only on raised surfaces.

- Practice. Buy a very thin brush from a hobby store or craft store (no need to buy overpriced GW brushes). Try to precisely follow the lines of your model and neaten up the parts where you fail to do so (which is normal). This is done in the basecoat step.
 
Also, looking back at your images, if I'm not mistaken, this is a pewter model and you just started painting directly to the pewter.

Usually, it's best to prime the model first with a spray primer. I usually use black, but some other colors are acceptable if that will remain your primary color. I usually get this primer paint from Army Painter. Their spray and paint is a bit finer than a normal spray paint, and since it is, it doesn't glob up on the model and lose detail. Anyway, a primer coat will give your colored paint something more substantial to adhere to as well as bring out the color to a better intensity. Also, if some paint eventually rubs off (which it inevitably will due to handling) then you won't have this bright silver showing through. It also makes spots you might have missed with your colors, disappear.

FYI
 
Purchasing a few Washes will advance your models a ton as well. Base coat your model, then cover it in a wash (Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil from GW are my favorites and a staple in my paint collection). Once dry, many people will stop at this point, as it is a good table top standard look. (I'd still do more with your characters, since they will be looked at much more than standard rank and file troops.) Worth the investment though.
 
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