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Help Not so new to this. ;b

Not quite. But yeah a good shake is always good.
The reason why the dropper bottles are harder to shake is that they are usually pretty full (at least the ones I have). Once they are down to 2/3 of their content shaking them becomes easier.
 
You could just shake the whole pack for some 15minutes... that should save you some time... ;)

Joke aside... for the problem of full bottles not mixing so well I use small metal balls or pearls. (Also small nuts or even tiny stones) Insert them into the bottles and enjoy the rattle every time you shake them up...
 
Yeah, if you don't shake up paint well before use, it can give your model a real "glossy" look that you may not want. (This is very apparent on fabrics.) Sometimes it happens, sometimes not. I think it has something to do with the oils in the paint separating. Not quite sure.
 
Should I put a primer down before I use the Vellejo paints?

And if so, will rustoleum professional primer work?
 
The way I've best seen primer explained is that it creates a surface that your paints will bond to better than plastic. If you are using a dark (black in most cases) primer, then it'll also cover any spots that your brush might not've covered with you pot paint. It also makes it less likely that your paint will rub off due to handling over time.

That being said, I've painted PLENTY of models straight out of the pot! Plastic is much more forgiving for this than metal and finecast, but I'd definitely prime those two.

As far as Rustoleum, it really depends on how fine a mist the spray can is able to produce. The specific primers made by GW, Army Painter, etc. spray an extremely fine mist that will not "goop up" in the tiny details of a model. If you use something off the shelf at Walmart, then you're running the risk of globing up paint in the crevices and losing your detail. This is why so many people go to much effort to strip bad paint jobs off certain eBay purchases.

The cheapest Primer (that is specifically for model painting) that I've found is from Army Painter. I'm quite happy with those primers. Some others here might've found a better source though...
 
n810 said:
I rather like automotive primers, and rustolium is fairly decent.
I would however avoid the discount store brand.
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I use Automotive primer if using a rattle can, they give good adhesion compared to some primers, I never use GW primers they are crap
 
Wow. It's been so long since I've really had the time to get on here. Or paint. :p been working like crazy to raise funds and to help others.

Most of the box sits untouched, but I broke out paint yesterday and almost got a CO knight and his CO done. Mostly base painting, but I will do the touch ups today (hopefully :oops:) I have been working on a dark green with a cream belly. I'll post pics tonight if I've gotten it done.
 
I've been wondering, how do people get sand to stick to the model bases? Elmers? PVA? I'm gonna try to base the CO soon, and I don't want the sand to fall off.
 
HeirofCarnage said:
I've been wondering, how do people get sand to stick to the model bases? Elmers? PVA? I'm gonna try to base the CO soon, and I don't want the sand to fall off.
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PVA does the job for me. I just spread it all across the base with the wooden end of a paintbrush and dip the model into the sand jar, making sure that the base doesn’t look wet with glue by giving it a good lot of sand on top.
 
All right, these are wip. Still need to do a ton of touch up on them, and the eyes need work (so does that feather). I went with a earthy look, with browns and greens and tans, with gold here and there. (What kind of lizardman wouldn't have gold!?!)

I know they don't compare to the works of art done by so many on here (like @Crowsfoot )
But I tried. They might not be show case, but they are field worthy!

20180514_203427-1.jpg
20180514_203414-1.jpg

I don't know... it just looks kinda... lame... compared to the ones y'all paint.

Anyways, thoughts and criticism?

~Acolyte Carnage.
 
HeirofCarnage said:
All right, these are wip. Still need to do a ton of touch up on them, and the eyes need work (so does that feather). I went with a earthy look, with browns and greens and tans, with gold here and there. (What kind of lizardman wouldn't have gold!?!)

I know they don't compare to the works of art done by so many on here (like @Crowsfoot )
But I tried. They might not be show case, but they are field worthy!

View attachment 43588
View attachment 43589

I don't know... it just looks kinda... lame... compared to the ones y'all paint.

Anyways, thoughts and criticism?

~Acolyte Carnage.
Click to expand...

When we all started we were all "lame" so don't put yourself down, practice, practice, practice.

Try a wash of Agrax earthshade then a drybrush you will be amazed at the difference.
 
HeirofCarnage said:
All right, these are wip. Still need to do a ton of touch up on them, and the eyes need work (so does that feather). I went with a earthy look, with browns and greens and tans, with gold here and there. (What kind of lizardman wouldn't have gold!?!)

I know they don't compare to the works of art done by so many on here (like @Crowsfoot )
But I tried. They might not be show case, but they are field worthy!

View attachment 43588
View attachment 43589

I don't know... it just looks kinda... lame... compared to the ones y'all paint.

Anyways, thoughts and criticism?

~Acolyte Carnage.
Click to expand...

I think they’re pretty good! It’s interesting to see someone give the Saurus the same colour scheme as the Cold One he’s riding. Also I love the rock base he’s standing on - that’s a new approach that looks great!

Just one thing I would say is that I would have used Ushabti Bone for the teeth, but that’s a teeny tiny point.

Crowsfoot said:
When we all started we were all "lame" so don't put yourself down, practice, practice, practice.
Click to expand...

Once again I agree absolutely with the mighty @Crowsfoot. Just keep painting models and you’ll get better, and when you do, you’ll look at these models and say ‘these chaps need a bit of touching up’ and you’ll go back to them and give them an even more thorough painting job with your improved skills. That’s what happened with my own Saurus Cav. I first painted them when I was a good few years younger then when I was around your age I went back to them and gave them some more detailing once I had got better at it.
 
Yeah he isn't staying on that rock... :p
It's for the Scar vet on CO, and he's no scar vet! I feel like the scar vet needs some "umph" to make him pop and stan out.

The stone I found in a gravel lot, and now I look around for them. I've found several.

Also, I bought a Vallejo paint set, so I don't have any GW paints. (I probably ought to just buy them honestly:confused:) but I think you are saying to wash the body with a brownish tint?
 
HeirofCarnage said:
Yeah he isn't staying on that rock... :p
It's for the Scar vet on CO, and he's no scar vet! I feel like the scar vet needs some "umph" to make him pop and stan out.

The stone I found in a gravel lot, and now I look around for them. I've found several.

Also, I bought a Vallejo paint set, so I don't have any GW paints. (I probably ought to just buy them honestly:confused:) but I think you are saying to wash the body with a brownish tint?
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Wash it all with a brown tint then drybrush each area with the base colour, post pics after then we can help you further.;)
 
HeirofCarnage said:
The first is prewash and the second is postwash.
View attachment 43620
View attachment 43619
Well, I did what you said to Crowsfoot, but I don't see too much change to it... Maybe you do though.

Should I do it again? Should I go heavier on the washes?

Thoughts & Criticism?

~Acolyte Carnage.
Click to expand...

Try a heavier wash especially around the scales then dry brush.
 
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