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Can anyone identify this paint?

NIGHTBRINGER
Slann

NIGHTBRINGER

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Can anyone (perhaps paint master @Crowsfoot ) identify which paint (or a paint that would produce very similar results) was used on the skin of the Cold Ones? I really love the colour but I haven't found anything in my paint collection to even closely resemble it. It looks to be some sort of amalgamation of yellow and brown.
s-l1600.jpg



As a bonus, I really like the paint scheme used recently by GW to paint these crystals; same question which paints do you think they employed?
Capture.JPG



A painting related thread posted by NIGHTBRINGER ... oh my! :wideyed:
 
Balor Brown? At least that is what the highlight looks like to my eye.

I would guess the crystals were done in Lothern Blue and Ahriman Blue? And maybe based in Altdorf?
 
The Cold ones look like XV88 and the crystals look like they are Sibirate green then highlighted with pallid wich flesh and shaded grey
 
Crowsfoot said:
The Cold ones look like XV88 and the crystals look like they are Sibirate green then highlighted with pallid wich flesh and shaded grey
Click to expand...
The highlight is definitely Pallid Wych Flesh. It is such a good paint.
 
Thank you for the replies.


So for the Cold One we have:
99189950021_BASE2016XV8801.jpg

followed by
99189951043_LAYER2016BalorBrown01.jpg





And the crystals:
  • Sybarite Green or (Lothern Blue and Ahriman Blue)
  • Pallid Wych Flesh
  • And then a grey shade




I would love to be able to replicate that cold one colour scheme. I'll have to go to the store and check out those colours in person to see how closely they match. To be honest, I'm not even sure if GW paints were used or not, but you guys have given me a great starting point. Thanks!
 
both those paints dry darker than in pot. and balor brown ends less yellow.
 
LizardWizard said:
both those paints dry darker than in pot. and balor brown ends less yellow.
Click to expand...
But does the Balor brown still retain the tint of yellow? That is what I like about the cold one in the original post. To my eyes it seems to be 70% brown and 30% yellow. That is the effect I hope to capture. Pure brown just wouldn't do it for me.
 
Maybe they used that brown or one like it, then they glazed over it with some sort of Clear Yellow. Reaper used to make some MSP series Clears that were meant for that sort of thing.
 
pendrake said:
Maybe they used that brown or one like it, then they glazed over it with some sort of Clear Yellow. Reaper used to make some MSP series Clears that were meant for that sort of thing.
Click to expand...
And the plot thickens.

My fear is that I go out and waste a bunch of money on paints and can never replicate the effect. Too many options.
 
NIGHTBRINGER said:
And the plot thickens.

My fear is that I go out and waste a bunch of money on paints and can never replicate the effect. Too many options.
Click to expand...
Then the question becomes what paints do you already have that are near the ones people have suggested?

Did the person who painted it originally never post anything about what was used? (...check with [?] the source...)

Meanwhile: https://www.miniaturemarket.com/rpr9095.html
 
Balor Brown still has the yellow undertone. It is close to a true Ochre. It is one of my favorite paints by GW. It can have the same issue their white paints have though. Most pots I pick up take a little bit of restorative work. Same as Whitescar, but not nearly as awful as Ceremite White. lol
 
Crowsfoot said:
With Brown you can add a spot of yellow to keep the tint, just add it to the highlights
Click to expand...
That is definitely a possibility. A bit harder to achieve true consistency across many models... but when have I ever painted many models?!!! :)

pendrake said:
Then the question becomes what paints do you already have that are near the ones people have suggested?
Click to expand...
GW's Snakebite leather would be the closest paint I have, but I am running pretty low and replacements are obviously no longer available. Everything else is a bit to far away. I have a couple of Vallejo brownish yellows, but they are much to far on the yellow side.

pendrake said:
Did the person who painted it originally never post anything about what was used? (...check with [?] the source...)
Click to expand...
I wish I could. I have had that picture saved on my computer for years now (whenever ever I see a paint scheme or conversion that catches my eye I store it in a folder on my computer). I have no clue where I got it from.

LizardWizard said:
Balor Brown still has the yellow undertone. It is close to a true Ochre. It is one of my favorite paints by GW.
Click to expand...
Perfect, I shall have to check it out. It's been a long while since I bought a GW paint!

LizardWizard said:
It can have the same issue their white paints have though. Most pots I pick up take a little bit of restorative work. Same as Whitescar, but not nearly as awful as Ceremite White. lol
Click to expand...
Do you mean they are dried out?
 
LizardWizard said:
Balor Brown still has the yellow undertone. It is close to a true Ochre. It is one of my favorite paints by GW. It can have the same issue their white paints have though. Most pots I pick up take a little bit of restorative work. Same as Whitescar, but not nearly as awful as Ceremite White. lol
Click to expand...

I have the same issue with GW paints so I bite the bullet and bought a few Scale 45 paints, impressive so far, I will eventually move off GW as they dry out quickly, the thing that I have noticed with using dropper bottle paints is it forces you to use a palette which I’m loving.
 
Crowsfoot said:
I have the same issue with GW paints so I bite the bullet and bought a few Scale 45 paints, impressive so far, I will eventually move off GW as they dry out quickly, the thing that I have noticed with using dropper bottle paints is it forces you to use a palette which I’m loving.
Click to expand...
I've switched mainly to Vallejo.
 
Crowsfoot said:
I have the same issue with GW paints so I bite the bullet and bought a few Scale 45 paints, impressive so far, I will eventually move off GW as they dry out quickly, the thing that I have noticed with using dropper bottle paints is it forces you to use a palette which I’m loving.
Click to expand...

They don't so much dry out. It is more that their acrylic medium separates from the pigments and binding agents. They can have a bit of a cottage cheese texture and take some restoring.

My painting background is from canvas and wood board, so I started off the hobby using a palette. However, a lot of my friends who have been the hobby for a while do notice a tremendous difference when they switch over to a palette and start thinning their paints. It is now the first bit of advice I give anyone when they ask me for painting tips.
 
LizardWizard said:
They don't so much dry out. It is more that their acrylic medium separates from the pigments and binding agents. They can have a bit of a cottage cheese texture and take some restoring.

My painting background is from canvas and wood board, so I started off the hobby using a palette. However, a lot of my friends who have been the hobby for a while do notice a tremendous difference when they switch over to a palette and start thinning their paints. It is now the first bit of advice I give anyone when they ask me for painting tips.
Click to expand...

I’m lazy when it comes to thinning paint etc, I just use it straight out of the pot switching will stop that and hopefully my painting will improve.
 
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