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Patchy Coloring From Shade

gmoney
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gmoney

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Hey guys,

I finished painting an eternity warden whose flesh is colored white. I then applied nuln oil all over the model to hit the nooks and crannies but now my model looks patchy (honestly, it's like this for all my minis except that it's really noticeable with this one since it's white). Is it a good idea to add another layer of paint to the flesh and bone areas and redo the highlights? I was following the tutorial from warhammertv and they always shade over everything so I'm not really sure what to do.

The guy at warhammer tv painted in these steps: base -> highlight -> shade -> dry brush

I have a feeling that it would be better for me to do this: base -> shade -> highlight -> drybrush

upload_2018-9-10_19-36-48.png
 
Normal way of painting especially if your new is,

Base > Shade > Highlight.

Did the Warhammer TV guide say "Glaze" or "Recess Shade" as they are not the same as a "Shade"

You will have to go over the flesh again.
 
@Crowsfoot the warhammertv guy applied the shade to the entire model. I may have rushed it when I was shading this model and the shade dried unevenly. It also didn't help that the flesh is ceramic white and the shade is nuln oil. Regardless, I went over the flesh again with ceramic white, reapplied the shade more evenly, and redid the highlights. It looks better but is still somewhat patchy but looks much better than before. I'm afraid I have to take the L on this one haha.

Speaking of highlights, is there a general rule on what to highlight on seraphon models? The warhammertv guy said "raised areas" of the flesh but besides the ridges on the legs and feet, I'm not really sure what he means by that. Pics would really help.
 
gmoney said:
@Crowsfoot the warhammertv guy applied the shade to the entire model. I may have rushed it when I was shading this model and the shade dried unevenly. It also didn't help that the flesh is ceramic white and the shade is nuln oil. Regardless, I went over the flesh again with ceramic white, reapplied the shade more evenly, and redid the highlights. It looks better but is still somewhat patchy but looks much better than before. I'm afraid I have to take the L on this one haha.

Speaking of highlights, is there a general rule on what to highlight on seraphon models? The warhammertv guy said "raised areas" of the flesh but besides the ridges on the legs and feet, I'm not really sure what he means by that. Pics would really help.
Click to expand...

What colours were the model he shaded? link to the video?

Highlights are all the raised areas, knees, ankles, toes, fingers, nose, ears etc etc
 
@Crowsfoot here’s the link:

Granted, he painted blue shade on blue base coat so it doesn’t look bad at all.

So you’re only supposed to highlight the “sharp” raised surfaces like ridges in the feet and such right? “Soft” raised surfaces like forearms and biceps shouldn’t be highlighted?
 
A trick for just getting the recesses is

Paint model
Gloss varnish
Gloss wash
Spray with mat varnish

The gloss varnish causes surface tension that means the gloss wash will mainly hit the recess and not destroy your highlighting.

With washes don't let them pool i also mix mine with a bit of airbrush thinner to tone it down.
 
gmoney said:
@Crowsfoot here’s the link:

Granted, he painted blue shade on blue base coat so it doesn’t look bad at all.

So you’re only supposed to highlight the “sharp” raised surfaces like ridges in the feet and such right? “Soft” raised surfaces like forearms and biceps shouldn’t be highlighted?
Click to expand...

Now it makes sense, I thought you were copying the colours as well.

Nuln oil is a black wash and should never be used on light colours.

When shading white it’s usually better to base coat a darker colour and highlight upto white.

Your a new painter I commend you for trying highlights so early, highlights happen in two ways.

1. Drybrush
2. Layering

Layering is more precise and creates a smoother finish but it is hard to master and can ruin a model if not done right.

Drybrushing is easier to master and works.
 
@Crowsfoot NOW IT MAKES SENSE. NO ONE TOLD ME TO HIGHLIGHT UP TO WHITE T_T

With regards to highlighting, I do drybrush the back scales of my seraphon units and I layer the highlights on their skin. Most of the units I've done are dark in color so I get a lot of lee-way when it comes to doing the highlighting with layers. I only realized how bad I was at it when my first 3 rippers and my eternity warden look kind of crappy since they have light color schemes. I'm going to take this L on my eternity warden and rippers. Hopefully my next 3 rippers will come out better and I'll try highlighting flesh with drybrush when I do my 40 skinks - My gamestore better watch out for the ugliest eternal shadow 2k list this side of the Mississippi . (Honestly, if there was a way to strip the paint and unbind the superglue/plastic glue, I'd probably redo my warden and rippers)

When you use drybrush to highlight the flesh and the ridges in the flesh, do you use a different colored drypaint from the one you use to drybrush the back scales or do you just use one drypaint for the entire model (excluding the weapons, jewelry, and claws)?

Also, I got the smallest drybrush that they sell in my local GW store and it's fine for the backscales but I feel like it's going to be difficult to use when I try to drybrush the flesh since there are more nooks and crannies. Do you have any tips on drybrushing to get highlights on flesh?
 
When you look at your model, look at it from the lowest point and work outwards.

So base coat it all, shade it all, highlight the skin first, touch up the scales then highlight them.

I always do the biggest areas first so take the warrior above as an example, all the skin is based, shaded then highlighted, I then do the scales, then the claws, teeth then the gold and last the weapon.
 
gmoney said:
@Crowsfoot NOW IT MAKES SENSE. NO ONE TOLD ME TO HIGHLIGHT UP TO WHITE T_T

With regards to highlighting, I do drybrush the back scales of my seraphon units and I layer the highlights on their skin. Most of the units I've done are dark in color so I get a lot of lee-way when it comes to doing the highlighting with layers. I only realized how bad I was at it when my first 3 rippers and my eternity warden look kind of crappy since they have light color schemes. I'm going to take this L on my eternity warden and rippers. Hopefully my next 3 rippers will come out better and I'll try highlighting flesh with drybrush when I do my 40 skinks - My gamestore better watch out for the ugliest eternal shadow 2k list this side of the Mississippi . (Honestly, if there was a way to strip the paint and unbind the superglue/plastic glue, I'd probably redo my warden and rippers)

When you use drybrush to highlight the flesh and the ridges in the flesh, do you use a different colored drypaint from the one you use to drybrush the back scales or do you just use one drypaint for the entire model (excluding the weapons, jewelry, and claws)?

Also, I got the smallest drybrush that they sell in my local GW store and it's fine for the backscales but I feel like it's going to be difficult to use when I try to drybrush the flesh since there are more nooks and crannies. Do you have any tips on drybrushing to get highlights on flesh?
Click to expand...
I use a makeup brush for drybrushing skin.
It is softer and creates less of a powdery effect. You have to wipe it off very well though.
 
Do you guys have any tips on how to strip paint and unbind superglue and plastic glue?
 
gmoney said:
Do you guys have any tips on how to strip paint and unbind superglue and plastic glue?
Click to expand...
You cannot unbind plastic glue. That stuff basically works like welding, it melts the plastic. I use a tiny sawblade to cut such parts off if necessary.

superglue has one weakness: It is hard and brittle, so it cannot withstand forces in other directions as the intended one. Unless you used massive amounts you can just break the parts off. Try to grab the part as closely as possible to to the attachment part and rotate it in the plane where it is attached. Apply torque. I have proken off lots of parts without major damage using that technique.

Stripping is... dependent on many factors. I'll leave that to other guys as I have no experience with it.
 
Stick the model in the freezer if it has superglue it should go brittle.

Stripping I use nail varnish remover none Acetone.

DO NOT STRIP FINECAST MODELS WITHOUT TESTING
 
@Crowsfoot define extra care? I was just gonna soak em in paint thinners or nail varnish remover and say abracadabra.
 
gmoney said:
@Crowsfoot define extra care? I was just gonna soak em in paint thinners or nail varnish remover and say abracadabra.
Click to expand...

Resin can go soft if left in an aggressive stripper, test it first or be prepared for a melted model
 
Crowsfoot said:
Resin can go soft if left in an aggressive stripper, test it first or be prepared for a melted model
Click to expand...

Have you tried stripping a resin model before? Got any tips or can you link me to a tutorial?
 
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