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Tutorial Painting A Skink And Getting Weird

neveroddoreven said:
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19. The jade details began as an equal mix of terracota and Sick Green, which was the base green of the leaves on the base. Bonewhite was added to the mix in increasing amounts for the next 3 layers. I decided that the centre and bottom tip of the snake motif on the helmet would be the brightest areas in a similar way to how the gold was painted. The last layer was applied as an edge highlight as well as a layer. To finish off, each corner was picked out with Silvergrey, and the corners in the centre with white.

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20. The javelin's blade was basecoated Pale Grey Blue then washed with Nuln Oil in 2 layers. Pale Grey Blue was applied again as an edge highlight first, then as a glaze in some areas where I wanted it to look like light reflecting. The corners of the edges were picked out with white, which was also glazed in the shiny areas.

Other things I forgot;
The claws were basecoated Charred Brown, highlighted Bonewhite towards the tips, then a reflective dot of Silvergrey was painted at the base similar to how you would paint a gem.
The inside of the shield was basecoated Beasty Brown then washed with Charred Brown.

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And there you have it, an overly complicated way of painting a 1 point model!
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I cannot thank you enough for this tutorial ! Thank you sooo much, this is pure gold for us less experienced people ! Could have paid for advice and get less !
Thank you so much, really !
 
neveroddoreven said:
View attachment 32730

19. The jade details began as an equal mix of terracota and Sick Green, which was the base green of the leaves on the base. Bonewhite was added to the mix in increasing amounts for the next 3 layers. I decided that the centre and bottom tip of the snake motif on the helmet would be the brightest areas in a similar way to how the gold was painted. The last layer was applied as an edge highlight as well as a layer. To finish off, each corner was picked out with Silvergrey, and the corners in the centre with white.

View attachment 32731

20. The javelin's blade was basecoated Pale Grey Blue then washed with Nuln Oil in 2 layers. Pale Grey Blue was applied again as an edge highlight first, then as a glaze in some areas where I wanted it to look like light reflecting. The corners of the edges were picked out with white, which was also glazed in the shiny areas.

Other things I forgot;
The claws were basecoated Charred Brown, highlighted Bonewhite towards the tips, then a reflective dot of Silvergrey was painted at the base similar to how you would paint a gem.
The inside of the shield was basecoated Beasty Brown then washed with Charred Brown.

View attachment 32732
View attachment 32733
View attachment 32734

And there you have it, an overly complicated way of painting a 1 point model!
Click to expand...

I could kiss you right now, just saying...
 
May I ask what kind of brushes do you use for the little details ? Do you have a brush solely for these jobs so it is as good as new or Am I that bad at taking care of my brushes ? :p
 
Aginor said:
Good eyes then!
But good eyes can also be a curse. I have quite good eyes but my hands don't meet my eyes' expectations so I can SEE all the errors I make.
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Bad eyes good hands here, my eyes used to be brilliant but now not so good, age is a brilliant thing!
 
I wish I had the time to at least have the time to paint a skirmish force like this it is amazing. The skills would be nice to but I think they will come whit time.
Great work!
 
Crowsfoot said:
I could kiss you right now, just saying...
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You're making me blush..

tom ndege said:
I wonder if he uses a magnifying glass... ;):wideyed:
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I tried that once. I found it made things difficult rather than helping.

Aginor said:
Good eyes then!
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Actually I have terrible eyesight, I'm severely short-sighted. There's a bookshelf about a metre in front of me as I type this, and I can't read the text on the spines. I should wear glasses, but I stopped using them because I didn't like relying on them. Good thing I don't drive. However, being short-sighted does come in really handy for this sort of thing, I see crystal clear up close.

Seraphage said:
May I ask what kind of brushes do you use for the little details ? Do you have a brush solely for these jobs so it is as good as new or Am I that bad at taking care of my brushes ? :p
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I recently bought a few new brushes to test out, an Army Painter one, one of the new GW ones and a few other hobby designed ones. They're all awful, and I wouldn't recommend them. I don't use acrylic brushes either, like the hobby ones they don't seem to hold a point. What I use are the soft brushes designed for watercolours. I use a size 0 for general layering, and 00 for details. I find that anything smaller or with shorter bristles has the paint drying too fast to work with. Watercolour brushes are soft enough for blending, yet the bristles are still rigid and hold a nice sharp point. Surprisingly durable too, I paint every day and a brush will last me about a year. I bought one for my brother once, and during a painting session witnessed his skill improve instantly.
I usually use Winsor And Newton. A lot of pro painters swear by their expensive 7 series, but I find their standard line is just fine. At £3-4 a brush it's cheaper as well.
 
neveroddoreven said:
I usually use Winsor And Newton. A lot of pro painters swear by their expensive 7 series, but I find their standard line is just fine. At £3-4 a brush it's cheaper as well.
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I use the series 7 brushes and they are brilliant, expensive but worth every penny, I've tried GW, Army painter as well and your right they are awful.
 
@neveroddoreven
Let me tell you two things, one you better have one for that, two I've never been attracted to a model before but let me tell you I'm through the roof. that water effect choice:snaphappy:
 
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