• The forum software have been upgraded to the latest version.

    If you notice anything that looks off, or does not work, please let us know.

    For more information, click here.

8th Ed. Advice on buying second hand models

A
Saurus

Anubris

New Member
Messages
71
Likes Received
0
Trophy Points
0
Hi guys,

I bought a second hand model (original packing, cheaper than GW) and the owner said he has many more lizards for sale. The idea is that I'll visit him sometime soon and I can buy any models I wish. So far I have 16 saurus, 24 skinks, 6 chamo's, 3 krox, scar-vet and skink priest on foot. I don't really like the GW prices and removing paint seems to be easy with dettol or something like that (many are unpainted so thats even better).

Many of the models for sale will be old metal ones, including the kroq-gar model. Question is: do I want kroq-gar in metal or does the finecast model have intrinsic advantages? The thing I wonder most is: does the metal kroq-gar model have a high tendency to trip over? Is it still possible to convert a metal one? (I might want to change the weapon).

I think I will buy the batallion someday so the focus on my part will be stuff like the kroq-gar model, chamo skinks, salamanders, terradons etc.
 
I can tell you that my Kroq-Gar does tip over fairly easily (in fact, the last time it did, it came off the base).

The weapon should be easy to change though.

If there is enough of a discount on the models, I will almost always go for the second hand stuff.
 
Well we spoke on the phone and the indication is 50% of the current GW-prices. I was abit afraid that the carnosaur metal model would be prone to tipping over :P He also said that he has slann for sale, which will also be metal. I could imagine that the metal slann model crushes the plastic bar that sets the slann in the air :P

Oh well, I will probably check it out anyway and see if I can find some useful models. I am doubting about kroq-gar/slann models though :shifty:
 
My carnosaur never tips over, if you position it carefully on it's base he should be fine. I would get the metal one, i think the extra weight ads to the epicness of the model :bored: Especially if it's 50% off!
You might be right about the slann though.

Good luck on your purchases, wish i got that discount ;)
 
I moved my Carnosaur over to a chariot base since that's what they're supplied with nowadays. It makes him very stable and also easier to move into contact with other troops. But before that I never had a problem with him tipping over. The tail offsets a bit of the weight of the model.

20121126_220214.jpg

The metal Slann will probably break the plastic stick, but you can be crafty and use something a bit more sturdy like a metal rod. My Terradons are on aluminum nails, for example. Looks just fine to me.
 
I use a half inch acrylic rod for my flying bases. They look great and aren't too noticeable.
 
I had to rebase mine on the 50mm base, because he kept falling forward.



100_7497-1.jpg
100_7499-1.jpg

The second try I put his back foot way off the back of the base and added some green stuff under his heel.
oh also this was a heavy plaster cast base I got off of eBay. I felt like the plastic one wasn't heavy enough.
 
Dont get the metal slann. I got one the week before the finecast and it has been terrible

As for the carno I agree with most. The extra weight is worth it. just becareful about how its on the base.
 
I will note that I purchased my Carnosaur on Ebay for about half price. I think it was around $37 with shipping. And it was well painted. Recently, it fell off the base (after a solid 2 years).
 
Thanks for all the constructive feedback guys! I have one final question: should I be concerned if models are painted already? I want to paint my own models so if a model is painted I will try to remove paint with dettol or something. Does anyone know whether this works with metal/plastic models?

I will be taking a look at all the models tomorrow, so I will let you know what I bought :bored:
 
Well, with metal models you can almost do what you want. Use nail-polish remover or something.

With plastic it's a little more difficult (because a lot of chemicals will hurt the plastic). I found that 'Simple Green' worked great for this task. Get a bowl filled with water and add a bunch of SG to it then put your models in and let them soak. After a day, take a toothbrush or something similar and scrub the paint. It SHOULD come off a bit. If you want more to come off then repeat the process for a few more hours. I usually get enough paint off so it looks like the model has simply been given a wash of whatever color was on it, then I paint over it again. I'm sure other people here have some ideas for it :)

and here is an old thread that was on this same topic:

http://www.lustria-online.com/threads/how-can-i-remove-paint-and-superglue-without-hurting.2096/
 
I have used simple green and it works wonders with both plastic and metal. I will say that on some models, the primer really sticks in the crevasses of the models.

I have heard of brake fluid being used effectively, but that stuff is really caustic and dangerous to mess with (Not recommended).
 
You can get paint off of metal pretty easy. Plastic, I am not so sure.
 
with regards to the metal slann my has not crushed the plastic bar and ive had it nearly 3 years. although when i got it i didnt do it right. instead of usinf the stand part i drilled through the centreof the base and put the stick through that. green stuffed around it andgreen stuffed around where it connects to the palaquinn
 
I'm finally back! I think I made a pretty good deal.

-Lizardmen army book, 7th ed.
-The Lizardmen Collector's guide
-Warhammer Battle magic (cards with all the spells from the 8 lores)
-3 colours of paint
-6 chameleon skinks (metal, ugly painted)
-Oxyotl (metal, converted with a dagger in his right hand, decently painted)
-2 Salamanders (metal, painted pretty OK, with 8 handlers in total)
-10 temple guard (plastic, newest edition)
-Slann (metal, ugly painted)
-Carnosaur + 2x Kroq-gar (one of them misses a part of the spear, both of them miss the shield but I think it's ok. The model is metal, ugly painted).
-Chakax (metal, blue undercoat)
-Skink priest (cloak of feathers, metal, unpainted)
-Skink chief (with scythe, metal, unpainted)
-1 cold one ( I wanted to have just 1 because I'm planning on buying the batallion box and I already had a coldone from the saurus oldblood on cold one blister).
Total price: 140 euros.

I am very happy about my little adventure today, even though it took me a long time to get there by train (luckily it was a free train ticket). The general consensus was 50% off GW price, and the only model which was slightly more pricy was the carnosaur (25 euros). Slann was 15 eur. The books, battle magic cards and paints were very cheap.

Combining this purchuase with the batallion box will enable me to field a pretty solid army. (I already had 16 saurus, 24 skinks, 6 chamo's, 3 krox, skink priest and scar-vet on foot).

First things first, I need to remove a lot of paint from metal models. I wouldn't mind it if the glue fades away either (carnosaur model has alot of glue on the saddle). Does anyone have a good tip when one wants to remove paint/glue from metal models I heard nail polish remover with a toothbrush is a good option.

I'm already thinking about what kind of conversions I could do with these new toys :p For one I could use Chakax as a temple guard champion, or I could chop off his head and give it to my oldblood on carnosaur :meh:
 
If you live in the States, you could try Simple Green (from almost any home improvement store). Simply soak the models for a day or two in the concentrated stuff and then take a toothbrush to them.

If not in the states, I have heard of something called Dettol being used. It is apparently an antiseptic that smells of pine.

I have also heard of a non-acetone fingernail polish remover working well with a toothbrush (after about 10 minutes).
 
I have heard about Simple Green but I don't live in the states. My best options are dettol or finernail polish remover. I think acetone finernail polish remover is easy to get, if I look for dettol I will probably find it too (dettol has many products though so I'll have to stay sharp :p). Do you think these will also affect the glue? I would like to dissemble the models completely (some models will undergo conversion and the carno has a big glue spot on him)
 
It should loosen up the glue somewhat. I know the polish remover will remove the glue, not sure how much the Dettol will though.
 
I removed the paint with ''cellulose thinner''. While doing so, I discovered that this also affects your bases :P
After scraping up most of the paint I used dettol for round 2. It's not as aggresive but it allows you to remove the last bits of paint without having to worry about burning yourself on aggressive chemicals.
 
In a well ventilated area, I assume?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top