Hey mate! Love your models that scar vet is a great piece of painting and the colours on the scar priest work pefectly!! Also, I'm a fan of your using older miniatures along with the newer ones. It looks awesome. Hope you can find the table to bring us more of that!!
Thank you, it's my wife idea - copper snake with green gems as eyes. Hopefully, i'll get the chance to make better quality photos in upcoming months. Hey! Thank you for support, it's always great to see your hard work appreciated i'd like to have time to paint more of my personal stuff, more often life gets in the way. I finally started playing (after, like 15+ years of collecting) so i guess my motivation will get high enough to shun other freetime activities aside. More pieces to come, that's for sure.
I have one continuing commission. I also have two customers for my basing business grandfathered in because I used to paint the bases as well and have since stopped due to time constraints. Except for those two repeat buyers
So, another year is near the end, and I decided to sat down past few weeks and find some time to finish my hard-working Saurus unit. They are simple, little above TT standard, first because they are all second hand (that's why they are all with clubs, not spears), and propably my oldest bought minis (I think I bought them around 2007, so they were plastic grey/badly painted like, 11 years), second because I've been busy lately (as usual), and didn't have the time to finish my Slann & EotG (which I hope will be finished before New Year), but those guys weren't as time-consuming. So, without further ado, here they are: P.s. I am aware that every post I placing here is about "Stegadon will be next". But trust me, this time it is
@Beastie these look great! Would you be willing to share your painting steps, or "recipe"? Especially their skin and the lighter chest/belly color. Thanks!
Sure, it goes like this: After priming the mini black, airbrush Celestra Grey (GW) onto whole miniature, then Temple Guard Blue (GW) from above, so that underbelly, lower parts of the legs & under the tail remains lighter. After the paint is fully dried, drybrush upper parts with Stegadon Scale Green, paint spine thorns with Model Color Black (Vallejo), and then drybrush the belly with Dead White (V). You can also add more definition to selected parts by precise washing with Coelia Greenshade (GW). And sorry I kept You waiting so long, I just awoken from my usual lurker-slumber. EotG incoming!!!
It's here - my Engine of the Gods. When my wife gave it to me at Christmas 2015 I never expected that it would take me almost 4 year to finish it up. While I finished the stegadon pretty quick, I slumbered upon painting the platform, and then "seasoned" the skinks before I made them too. But because of the time it took I can clearly see the different stages I went through my developement as a painter - several parts of the miniature may be called described as "tabletop", some are closer to what I am aiming today, which is the competition quality - the Engine is my 2nd attempt on a NMM at such scale. Overall, I am happy that it definetely draws attention when I field him at our basement games from time to time. And even happier than I can move on to other lizards & dinos projects that has been stalled for a time.
The details on your painting... you have brought out details that I didn't even know where on this model. Well done, that is a truly beautiful work of art.
Thanks guys <bows down> ! It was a mix of GW/Vallejo palette: Charred Brown (Game Color Vallejo) as a base, then Balor Brown (GW), Light Brown (Model Air Vallejo), finished with Aged White (Model Air Vallejo). larger parts were made using airbrush, recesses were picked out with Sepia Ink (Vallejo), highlight is mainly two last colors on the pallette. As for the elements that required painting by brush, I used blends of color that are next to each other to achieve finer color transition (for example: Charred Brown -> Charred Brown+Balor Brown-> Balor Brown; Light Brown -> Light Brown+Aged White-> Aged White). It should be noted that I've come across paints that better suit the NMM technique (Scale 75 range to be precise), but it's a presonal preference really.